Busan/Haeundae Travel Guide

I wrote this for a job ap, and I'm gonna move it to a new forthcoming blog soon. I'll just leave this here now.

Haeundae

Korea’s most popular beach lies on the peninsula’s southern coast, on the eastern side of the city of Busan. Dalmaji Hill and the mountains beyond gives Haeundae a Mediterranean feel, or at least as close as one can get in Korea. The rough white sand beach stretches for 1.5 kilometers between Mipo Wharf on the east and the Westin Chosun and Dongbaek Park on the west. The beach is taken over by enormous throngs of Koreans in July and August, and downtown Haeundae-gu has enough hotels, restaurants, bars, and karaoke rooms to handle them. Fortunately for the traveler, this means that hotel rooms are both inexpensive and easy to find throughout the rest of the year. Pusan International Film Festival (PIFF), Korea’s largest and one of the biggest in Asia, takes over Haeundae the first week of October. This is an excellent time for film buffs and Hallyu (Korean Wave) fans to head to the beach.

Arrival, information, and accommodation

Trains call on Haeundae Station from Ulsan, Gyeongju, Daegu, and ultimately Seoul, However, these trains are infrequent and slow, taking 6 hours or more to arrive from Seoul. You are better off reaching Haeundae by using Busan Station. It has better connections to Seoul via KTX train, which whips to Seoul in under 3 hours ( www.info.korail.com/2007/eng/eng_index.jsp). Subway Line 2 also stops at Haeundae Station, which is the easiest connection from Busan Station, the bus terminals, and central Busan. Use exits 3 or 5 from the subway to reach the beach, a ten minute walk from the station. The city Bus stops at Haeundae Station. Bus 302 connects Haeundae with downtown Busan. The Tourist Information booth at Haeundae station is a bit difficult to manage for non-Korean speakers, but there are free maps in English. The Busan Station Tourist Information kiosk is more user friendly. You can also call 51/1330 for tourist information in English.

Not surprisingly, Haeundae has a surplus of hotels in every category. Novotel Ambassador Busan (51/743-1234, www.novotelbusan.com/eng/index.php) is in the center of the beach. The Novotel boasts Murpii (51/743-1234 Ext . 6071, www.murphys.co.kr/) , the most popular dance club on Haeundae. The Westin Chosun (051/749-7428, www.westin.com/busan) dominates the western edge of the beach, and is still considered the standard of Haeundae luxury. This hotel features great sunrise views and posh O’Kim’s bar, along with top end restaurants. Hotel Riviera (51/740-2111, rivierahotel.co.kr/EN/index.html) is a midrange hotel five minutes off the beach, halfway along the main road between the Novotel and Haeundae Station. Gangnam Motel (no phone listed) is located just off the beach. Follow the main road away from the beach, with the Novotel on your right, turn left at first stoplight, then left again at the first alley. Outside of peak summer season and early October, rooms run about 30,000 won per night. Rooms are clean, though small and drab. Several dirt-cheap motels stand a few blocks west of the Novotel, some as low as 20,000 won a night, though they are definitely on the seedy side.


The Town

Chock full of restaurants, entertainment options, and the best people watching in Korea, it’s easy to see why Haeundae is so popular. Busan Aquarium (51/740-1700, 10am-9pm weekdays, 9am-10pm weekends and holidays; adults 16,000 won, children 11,000 won; www.busanaquarium.com/eng/f_main.html) is Korea’s largest and best, featuring a large glass tunnel through the massive shark tank. Glass bottom boat rides over the shark tank are also available for 5,000 won. Dongbaek Park lies on the west end of the beach, near the Westin Chosen. It’s a great place to walk or jog past sweeping views of the Gwangan Bridge, Korea’s longest and most beautiful. At the east end of the beach, Mipo Wharf offers boat rides along the beach and around a nearby uninhabited islet. The Haeundae Open Air Market is a couple blocks north of the beach, and offers all kinds of goods. After the sun sets, several impromptu peddlers along the beach sell Roman Candles and other fireworks for your pyro pleasure.

Eating, drinking, and entertainment

Haeundae is a top dining and nightlife destination, and has the largest culinary variety of any neighborhood in Korea outside Seoul. Along with all manner of Korean delights, you can also choose from Thai, Indian, Turkish, Mexican, Italian, as well as American chains such as Outback Steakhouse and TGI Friday’s. Nightlife ranges from trendy clubs and posh bars in the high end hotels to soju and Roman Candles on the beach. For gamblers, try your luck at the casino in the Paradise Hotel, next door to the Novotel on the beach.

Beers Plus A few blocks north of the beach along the main road. This is a Korean-style hof, which requires the purchase of food to buy draft beer. Decent nachos. This hof is on the 8th floor of its building, and features a roof deck.

Dairy Queen Located in the concourse under the aquarium, which has stair access directly from the beach. Korea’s only outlet of the franchise, so it’s the only place in the country to get a Blizzard. Ice cream only.

Mipo Wharf On the far east side of the beach. Take your pick of seaside raw fish restaurants. On the pricy side, but you can’t find fresher fish.

Starface On Dalmaji Hill, the best way to get there is via taxi (2-3,000 won). Ask the driver to take you to “kim-sung-jong joori-moon hak-gowan,” which is next to the bar. Cheap drinks, nice views, and live music.

Taco Al Puebla A little difficult to find, walk away from the beach on the main road, turn right through the market, cross the street and turn left after the market, turn right in the first alley. It’s tiny, but may have a line out the door. Possibly the best Mexican food in Korea, and quite cheap for non-Korean food.

U2 Bar Just north of the beach, across the street from Novotel. A rowdy expat bar that serves delicious free popcorn, a rarity in Korea. Live music occasionally.